In December 1966, three pioneers—Bob Watts, Steve Longenecker, and Robert John Gillespie—made the historic first ascent of the Nose of Looking Glass Rock. At the time, this incredible achievement went largely unnoticed. Equipped with what is now considered obsolete gear, including a twisted nylon rope, a rack of pitons, and lugged boots, these men climbed the Nose, laying the foundation for what would become a vibrant North Carolina climbing culture.
Looking Glass Rock: The Heart of North Carolina Climbing
Jutting out of the heart of Pisgah National Forest at just under 4,000 feet, Looking Glass Rock stands as an iconic granite dome. Unlike in 1966, today, on almost any day of the week, climbers can be seen making their way to the top of Looking Glass. This location is one of North Carolina’s most revered climbing destinations, part of a rich landscape that includes Stone Mountain in the Piedmont, Table Rock in Linville Gorge, and Rumbling Bald overlooking Lake Lure. From beginner routes to elite challenges, North Carolina offers a lifetime of climbing adventures.
The Evolution of Climbing and North Carolina’s Unique Culture
The advent of modern climbing gear, the rise of climbing documentaries like “Free Solo,” and the debut of climbing in the 2021 Olympics have introduced millions to the sport. However, North Carolina remains true to its roots, preserving the independent spirit of climbing. While many premier climbing locations across the country, such as Yosemite, now require permits to limit access and protect the environment, most North Carolina climbing spots are still surrounded by pristine wilderness. This is largely due to the popularity of traditional climbing—known as “trad” climbing—in the region. Unlike sport climbing, trad climbing involves placing and removing removable protection in the rock as climbers ascend, embodying the adventurous spirit of the 1966 ascent of the Nose.
Pisgah Climbing School: Bridging Tradition with Modern Climbing
Enter Pisgah Climbing School, a beacon for climbers in North Carolina. Founded and operated by Karsten Delap, the only International Federation of Mountain Guides Association (IFMGA) certified guide in the Southeast, Pisgah Climbing School is setting the standard for climbing education in the United States. With a motto of “Defined by Mountains, Fueled by Knowledge,” PCS is dedicated to making North Carolina climbing safer and more accessible for everyone.
Pisgah Climbing School offers a wide range of courses, from introductory climbing days to advanced techniques. Throughout the year, PCS guides can be found teaching children the basics at Looking Glass, guiding seasoned climbers up Laurel Knob—the largest rock face on the East Coast—or leading ice climbing expeditions at Whiteside Mountain.
Experience Climbing with Pisgah Climbing School
Whether you’re new to climbing or a seasoned pro, Pisgah Climbing School provides an exceptional educational experience. The team’s diverse background includes a retired Army Master Sergeant, a paramedic, a videographer, and an epidemiology Ph.D. candidate. Each guide brings a passion for climbing and education, ensuring that every day out with PCS is an adventure.
For those looking to explore climbing in North Carolina, Pisgah Climbing School is the perfect place to start. As the leaves begin to change and the summer turns into fall, consider booking a guided sunset climb of the Nose at Looking Glass Rock. It’s a chance to experience the same sense of adventure that Watts, Longenecker, and Gillespie felt back in 1966.
